ATTENTION : Brake rotors and warranty

[kelly_saunders]

Hey sorry to be the bearer of bad news but there is no solid fix. I bought the car in 2018 and had them swapped 4 times since then with very little mileage on them. Kia will not own up to them being faulty which is one reason I will not recommend them to anyone. I was thinking of going aftermarket to stop running into the same issues after they supposedly replace them during the service visit. Best of luck hope it works out.

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[Deeepsix]

Hey sorry to be the bearer of bad news but there is no solid fix. I bought the car in 2018 and had them swapped 4 times since then with very little mileage on them. Kia will not own up to them being faulty which is one reason I will not recommend them to anyone. I was thinking of going aftermarket to stop running into the same issues after they supposedly replace them during the service visit. Best of luck hope it works out.

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Hey, thanks for the reply. So Kia...”Kia of America”?... declined to cover it but the explanation was the district manager declined it because they’re “wear items”. The issue I totally get that, but I’m right at 2 years of ownership and just hit 7k miles. I’ve been doing some digging and it’s clearly a common problem/know issue and I KNOW people are getting covered under goodwill with more miles than me. That’s the frustrating part

 

[WRXtoStingerGT]

4 times in a certain period of time can qualify for lemon law...

 

[z/kG70]

Why on Earth would you lemon law a car out for that?
Not trying to be rude but this problem is a simple to fix stop using their crap brake pads.
The brake rotors are not being warped it is called a lack of parallelism, and it happens from uneven pad material on the rotor surface.

You need a more aggressive brake pad they went for comfort and this is the result of it. The brake pad is baking its material in the rotor surface this is normal, but it is happening at a level too high. This is causing high and low spots on the rotor surface.


Do I have a recommendation for a brake pad for this vehicle no I do not, but I am sure plenty of people do especially guys who have tracked this car. You can buy high quality replacement front rotors on RockAuto for 75 bucks that's the expensive option you can get ones for cheaper. You can also get replacement brake pads that are probably better than the factory ones for $50.

The other vehicle I have destroys its rotors because the brake pads are so aggressive. The brakes are phenomenal but you will be doing a brake pad and rotor replacement every time, and if you drive it hard they can wear out pretty quick. That car went for aggressive braking versus comfort.




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[WRXtoStingerGT]

I think I am just salty that I had to make 5 visits to a dealership in less than 6 months and 5000 miles of ownership to finally have the problems resolved. Those are five half-days wasted (took them over two hours each time) that I lost from work. Everyone had an excuse at both corporate and the dealership. Was comical how they were making mistakes left and right or trying to shortcut. What a shame.

 

[KIA-StingerGT]

... Bedding is best done when traffic is light, as other drivers will have no idea what you are up to ...

1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph.

I know this is an older post, but after recently experiencing the Stinger GT brake shudder issue, I found that the bedding procedure reduced the issue considerably.

And because of traffic I was only able to do the procedure 4-5 times, so I'm guessing had I been able to do a few more the problem would've disappeared.

 

[Grampy61]

I am having the shuddering/vibration issue out of nowhere at 21k. and pads were checked 3k ago when flipping out snow tires and rims and were fine.. dealer is going to look at it to diagnose. I am hoping for feedback on what the service guy told me over phone and that is : with the Brembo calipers you HAVE to use Brembo pads ( you can change out the rotors to aftermarket but the pads have to be Brembos). Honestly I thought I read you can change the whole system while keeping the calipers(which is what I want to do!). Thank you in advance for any and all help with this. Blessings to all of you and yours!

 

[prudejosh]

My 18GT2 I just replaced the rotors and pads, to drilled and slotted with enc yellows. The shaking and sound is gone. But I’ve put only 800miles since change. Yes

 

[prudejosh]

Why on Earth would you lemon law a car out for that?
Not trying to be rude but this problem is a simple to fix stop using their crap brake pads.
The brake rotors are not being warped it is called a lack of parallelism, and it happens from uneven pad material on the rotor surface.

You need a more aggressive brake pad they went for comfort and this is the result of it. The brake pad is baking its material in the rotor surface this is normal, but it is happening at a level too high. This is causing high and low spots on the rotor surface.


Do I have a recommendation for a brake pad for this vehicle no I do not, but I am sure plenty of people do especially guys who have tracked this car. You can buy high quality replacement front rotors on RockAuto for 75 bucks that's the expensive option you can get ones for cheaper. You can also get replacement brake pads that are probably better than the factory ones for $50.

The other vehicle I have destroys its rotors because the brake pads are so aggressive. The brakes are phenomenal but you will be doing a brake pad and rotor replacement every time, and if you drive it hard they can wear out pretty quick. That car went for aggressive braking versus comfort.




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I have EBC yellows with slotted rotors, stopping power so good it will put you through the dash.

 

[spider55]

I just bought a set of slotted rotors & stoptech brake pads for the F&R, stock rotors are fine to use but the stock brakes pads are garbage.

 

[SpaceGhost]

Any examples of rotor/pad combos that are good shudderless long term ?

 

[Djltoronto]

Any examples of rotor/pad combos that are good shudderless long term ?

OEM rotors and Centric pads from Rock Auto - Silky smooth still after 15k

 

[Djltoronto]

what the service guy told me over phone and that is : with the Brembo calipers you HAVE to use Brembo pads

LOL

No - just no. get a new service guy ASAP